Breakfast 101

(Names are occasionally changed to protect the guilty. However as Katherine Darling stated in her recent memoir “ Under the Table” (her experience as a student at FCI in New York, “THERE ARE NO INNOCENTS IN CHEF SCHOOL.” Well, except for maybe me.)

 

For some reason I hate breakfast. Don’t know why. Maybe it has something to do with all the years I had morning sickness (7 x 9 months= 63 /12= 5years 3months!).

Despite this dislike (or maybe because of it) I was looking forward to my first class rotation; BREAKFAST.

 Chef F was enthusiastic and extremely patient. It was a lucky draw to end up in his class for my first rotation. My partner was ‘Andrew’; an 18-year-old married ‘man’ with 2 children and 2 jobs on top of going to school. He had also seen 2 tours of duty in Afghanistan and 1 in Bosnia. At 18? After 2 weeks of politely listening to his stories I pulled aside another classmate and asked if they thought Andrew might not have a firm grasp on the difference between truth and fiction. My classmate looked at me, smiled and replied “well, duh!” Apparently I was the recipient of Andrew’s attention and stories because the remainder of the class had tired of his fabrications within the first couple of days. It’s too bad. He was a hard worker and I think had talent in the kitchen. His lies and his “allergic reaction” to helping clean up but mostly because of his repeated absences resulted in his dismissal a few days in to our second block. I was sorry about this, as I genuinely liked Andrew despite his need to tell fantastic stories. I haven’t heard anything about him since.

  On our first morning of class, we all arrived early to dress in our “whites” (chef jacket, black checked pants, white apron, neck-tie and toque) Most culinary schools provide (or sell) the students their uniform, and then the student is required to keep it clean. At SAIT we have an angel named Adele who twice a week provides each student with a clean uniform. This might not seem like much until you have a uniform covered in blood from a meat cutting class, or coated in batter from baking class. Or you are like me and cannot wear white without getting filthy even in a clean room. After almost 30 years of trying to keep on top of the laundry for 9+ people Adele is my hero.

 The Korean students in our group were ready with their dictionary translators (like a calculator), we all had our paper and pens ready to learn something magnificent about breakfast. Chef F arrived, greeted us all and then read his power point notes word for word. Nothing earth shattering. Nothing new. I felt a bit disappointed but still eager to start on my career as a breakfast cook.

 Each morning in the kitchen consisted of our mise en place to prepare for service once the breakfast counter opened. Egg dishes such as omelets or poached, potatoes, pancakes or French toast, and breakfast steak. Attempts were made at pastry but never managed to really look like pastry during our 3-week block.

 Chef F’s relaxed attitude was comfortable to work with but also frustrating. It was difficult to try and achieve any sort of high standard with our work when so many of the class found that they could get away with smaller efforts. I don’t think we poisoned anyone but I don’t feel very proud of the food we served either.

 A highlight during this time was a visit from Chef Michael Smith (of Food Networks Chef at Home) I had no idea who he was as who had time to watch TV? Not me. But apparently all my classmates. So although I didn’t know who Chef Smith was I could tell by the obvious excitement that this was a big deal. In addition to hearing Chef Smith speak and be able to ask questions several of us were attending a fund raising dinner at the Hyatt the next night as assistant chefs. This was an exciting opportunity and I was looking forward to being behind the scenes. I had been at several of these types of dinners as a guest, but had never witnessed the great effort required to plate and serve 300+ people while the food was still hot.

 I wanted to look good in my chef “whites” and so pulled on one of those horrible torture undergarments that suck all the wobbly bits together and make you look like you exercise. I hopped in to my car to drive to Karen’s home so that we could travel to the Hyatt together. I made it about half way before I could not breath. I stopped at a drug store and purchased a pair of scissors and cut the waistband of the undergarment in several places.  I don’t know who I though I was kidding anyway, so not as svelte looking ,but much more comfortable, I proceeded to Karen’s and then on to the Hyatt.

We were quite early but were put to work in the huge working kitchen at the Hyatt. As Michael Smith entered the kitchen it was like a star was walking through. Everyone stopped what he or she was doing in a chance to hear what he had to say. I was struck by how tall he was, but mostly by how organized and kind. Work was being completed, at a high standard, but nobody was yelling. Just working quietly, and quickly. As the dinner hour approached we all gathered upstairs close to the banquet room. In all there was about 30 Chefs and 40 or so students. Tables were lined and ready with plates for the first course. As a group we worked through all the plates exactly how Chef Smith instructed us. This was repeated with each course right through to the finale “a grown-up” sundae with cotton candy swirl and cream “marshmallows”. It was fascinating. And I was hooked. This was the kind of feeling I was after. But back at school, in breakfast class, I was feeling less enthusiastic.

 One of the unique components of Professional Cooking at SAIT is the ‘opportunity’ to be involved in food service from almost the first day of class. Although this helps students learn ‘real time’ preparation (i.e.: as fast as you can), quality teaching and learning suffers. I think most students would benefit from an introduction period comprised of demonstrations and an opportunity to duplicate the techniques under supervision. This would allow critique without the stress of having food out on the line by a target time. Of course learning to be fast is also critical. But learning to do it right, I believe, is the foundation to going faster.

 

 

BREAKFAST 101:

Breakfast can mean different things depending on where you live. Literally to “break your fast”, in Vietnam you might eat Pho (rice noodles in a flavorful broth) or in France toasted day old baguette with jam.

 Really, anything nourishing and healthy is a good way to fuel your body and get your energy up for the day ahead.

 

 

Crepes: While living in France the local grocery gave me the following recipe for crepes. February 2 is crepe day in France and most households will make crepes of some sort for dinner. They are also great for breakfast, lunch or dessert--all depending on the fillings you use:

 

6 eggs

500 grams flour

1 pinch salt

4 soup-spoon oil (about 4 tablespoon canola)

3 soup spoons of sugar (about 3 tablespoons)

milk to thin batter to pouring consistency (aprox 500 ml)

 

Blend ingredients until smooth. Allow mixture at least an hour of rest in fridge. Heat crepe pan and add small amount of clarified butter. Ladle small amount of batter in pan, tilt to coat pan evenly (pour off excess if too much batter used. Pan should have just enough batter to make even but very thin ‘pancake’. Cook until lightly brown on one side, then flip to cook other side for a minute or so.  Repeat with remaining batter. Fill with desired filling, then roll or fold crepe.

 

 

Omelets:

 To make a really good omelet use fresh eggs and don’t overcook. For each omelet beat together 2-3 eggs. Pour in to a heated non-stick pan to which you have added 2 teaspoons clarified butter. Agitate the eggs in the pan with a fork or spatula so that the runny un-cooked egg runs under the egg that is beginning to cook. It will look almost like scrambled eggs at this point. Smooth out the egg in the pan, season with salt and pepper top with cheese if desired (or other desired ingredients, pre-cooked where needed). Fold over one edge of omelet (about 1/3) Tip pan over plate allowing omelet to fold over on to itself. This whole process takes no more than 5 minutes.